The Mezquita in Cordoba

Even Cordoba has a hop-on-hop-off touristic bus. In fact, they have a big bus and a mini bus for the narrow streets. The tourism counter was at the top of the escalators near the entrance of the train station, so I knew where to go. The saleslady motioned the bus driver to wait for me.

She also sold me a tour of the Mesquita with the entrance fee included, to save 10€. She said to look for the guide with a red umbrella.

Cordoba bus tour

More Cordoba bus tour pictures in Smugmug.

The double decker bus somehow managed to squeeze into some pretty narrow streets. I got off at Stop 1 to catch the mini bus. Stop 1 was across the river from the Mesquita and the Alcazar of Cordoba and there was a very nice view of a tower and the bridges and the river.

Even the mini bus had an audio guide that you could listen to in many languages. You simply changed the channel to your language. But the mini bus driver went over and beyond that. He pointed out a lot more sights that the audio guide didn't mention. Ruins on the right, a hidden church on the left, another plaza with a monument, a beautiful patio with a garden. There was so much to see in the little alleys.

I was sitting in the front across from him, and when he saw that I was talking pictures of some ruins on the right, he reached out and tapped me to get my attention to look at a church on the left.

After the mini bus loop was done, I stayed for two more stops to the Mezquita.

Waiting for the guided tour

Entering the gates, there's a huge courtyard with floors of pebbles cemented like some kind of mosaic. There were orange trees everywhere, irrigated by little canals. Near the ceilings hung old wood panels, which the tour guide later explained to be beams from the old roof. Near the ticket sales, a square pool was fed by four fountains at each corner. At one of its corners was a very old olive tree. A newly wed couple were sitting at the edge of the pool while a photographer pointed his long lenses at them.

The guard at the door wouldn't let me in because I was too early. And he pointed me in the direction of the ticket sales counter on the other side of the courtyard. I understood that I was supposed to wait there. I took some pictures then decided to go back outside.

Freshest Fish in Spain

The restaurant across the little alley looked expensive but was actually reasonable. I opted to sit in the inner patio. There was a nice little fountain among the tables covered with white linen, and there were decorated tiles among the ivy covering the walls.

The left page of the menu was in Spanish and the right side was in English. The waitress must have seen me reading the right side because she spoke to me in English immediately. I ordered half a raccion of paella and half a raccion of fried cod. That was very surprisingly one of the freshest fish I've tasted! And the half a raccion was just a bit smaller than a normal serving. Both dishes were delicious!

With the price, the ambience, and the friendliness of the staff, it was easily the best meal I've had in Spain!

The restaurant is called Bandolero.

La Mezquita

More Mezquita pictures in Smugmug.

Near the appointed hour, I went back near the ticket sales counter and waited. Suddenly, I turned around, and there was the guy with a strange lopsided red umbrella. A couple from Melbourne, Australia had found him before I did and I chatted with them and with our guide Fernando while we waited for other people. Four more joined us, then we were off.

As soon as we entered and I saw the arches, my jaw dropped. Literally.

Similar to the Plaza Reial and La Rambla, the SL version of the Mesquita (which was already awe-inspiring) pales in comparison to the real thing.

Fernando took us around to the different sections and he explained who added it and when. Then we ended near the exit but we didn't go all the way out so that we could stay longer if we wanted. I stayed another hour or so, retracing our steps and taking more pictures.

The place was not as solemn as I thought it would be, because there were so many people as in the cathedrals of Barcelona. I wondered what it would be like at the end of the day when all the crowds have gone. Or even better, before the cathedral was built in the middle.


Somehow, in this trip to Andalusia, I am more attracted to the architecture and the culture of the Moors.