He Who Loves His City

THE birthday started with a visit to the Sagrada Familia. My appointment (I bought my ticket online so I can skip the lines) was at 9:15 and a visit to the towers at 10:15. I left the pension at 8:30 with instructions from the clerk how to take the Metro to get there. I made it just in time.

Sagrada Familia

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I joined the throngs of people who arched their necks and backs as they pointed their cameras toward the sky. Then I went in.

Large cathedrals always inspire a certain awe anyway, but this one took my breath away. Most cathedrals have a heavy feel to them. Maybe I just had too many fears about the wrath of God as a child. Or at least the wrath of a nun with a ruler in her hand. But this one feels light. It felt like walking into heaven.

They've also created a certain ambience by playing soft New Age music and posting signs asking people to maintain silence. I'm glad I went early because later there were too many tourists who don't read signs.

The stained glass windows had abstract designs unlike traditional cathedrals. The main wall to the north had cool colors and the main walk to the south had warm colors.

I had seen the virtual tour of the cathedral on the website and and the exterior of the towers reminded me of Las Vegas especially with the colorful berry cluster's at the tops of the towers and the letters sticking out of the sides.

But somehow, it made the inside of the tower more lighthearted. Better than gargoyles! The numerous windows also helped.

Visitors were taken up by elevator but you had to take the very narrow steps down and you could switch between the two towers on the way down. Towards the end, the spiral became narrower, there were no more windows, and it felt like an endless staircase. Around the last 10 steps, I could already feel my legs aching, especially my shins and the front of my thighs.

I walked out the opposite side at the Passion facade, took more pictures, sat down to rest and decided to find a place to eat.

I turned left after exiting and crossed the streets to go kitty corner, where there's a Subway, and I turned right there. Another block, then a left and there's a small place immediately around the corner called Shang Tung. The bartender/waiter looked Asian. I just pointed at a picture on the menu and, even though he didn't understand English, he was very friendly and helpful. I gave him a good tip on top of the bill.

Bus Turistic

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I saw the Bus Turistic stop across the street from the Sagrada Familia, so I went back and bought a ticket for 2 days. Then I spent the rest of the afternoon riding on the top deck of these buses, shooting pictures randomly.

I got off at Plaza Catalunya and walked the entire La Rambla back to my hotel. I was so exhausted.

A 2-hr nap wasn't enough, but I had to prepare for my evening meeting.

Dinner in "the star" with "the captain"

I hadn't finished dressing when I heard a knock on my door. The Captain had arrived. After hurriedly pulling on my top, I opened the door and there he was with a big warm grin, and I gave him a big warm hug.

He asked if I was comfortable in the room. I said I was and I also showed him the little patio. Then I put on my shoes and off we went towards the water.

We turned into a small alley that seemed empty except for a small place with a blue neon sign towards the end of the block. For some reason, the emptiness of the surrounding area and the blue light in contrast to the street lights made it feel like I'm in a scene from the Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy (and I forgot my towel!).

But when we got close enough to see the facade and the inside, it actually looked like a nice little very classy restaurant.

The Captain had made reservations and we were seated at a corner by the window. He asked the maitre d' to speak in English because I am "Americana". (His thoughtfulness and gentlemanliness always surprised me.)

The maitre d' didn't speak English, but the menu had an English translation. Then he described the day's special, and the Captain translated it into English for me. The entire process was an adventure in itself, but quite fun.

For appetizers, we had some kind of mussels that were caught fresh that day. For the main course, the Captain had a plate with several slices of meat with some sides. I wasn't paying attention to his dish because I was anxious to dive into my plate of two tennis-ball sized rolls. Each roll was a moist paper-thin slice of bacon wrapped around a white fish filet wrapped around scallops. It was heavenly!

For dessert, the maitre d' remembered that I avoided cheese, so I had two options. I choose the homemade lime ice cream (that was heavenly too), and the Captain had cherries with a kind of soft cheese.

The name of the restaurant was appropriately heavenly: La Estrella.

The "original" Barcelona

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The Captain was the one who, years ago, stirred a wish in me to see Barcelona some day. He told me about the city, its people, the culture, its artists, their customs, their history, and their fight for independence. At the time, I thought it wasn't likely that I would visit. But I listened to him intently and with fascination anyway because he made it come alive.

As we walked around the oldest part of the city (the original Ancient Rome encampment), he talked about the history again as he pointed out the original Roman walls and gates, museums, government buildings, and the cathedrals of Santa Maria Del Mar and Del Pi, and the Barcelona Cathedral. Santa Maria Del Mar was the largest cathedral in Europe until the Notre Dame was built. We walked through plazas and old streets where many people were strolling quietly or relaxing in outdoor chairs around tables with their drinks while chatting animatedly.

The man loved his city, and he could make you fall in love with it too.

Finally, he showed me the little shop with the best chocolate in town. It's located in the little alley called Petritxol.

A little while later we ended up at La Rambla. He pointed out the boqueria marketplace and the place where I should never go at night. Then we turned into another alley which ended at a plaza surrounded by restaurants and bars whose numerous outdoor tables and chairs were fully occupied.

But the significance of this plaza is personal. It was loosely recreated in Second Life years ago (along with La Rambla and Columbus's monument) in a sim called Barcelona Del Oeste, where I spent a lot of time with friends and lovers.

Finally, we navigated more alleys and soon we were in front of my pension. I didn't want it to end, but my legs and feet were killing me and I worried that I was keeping him up too late.

I gave him a big hug. He gives wonderful hugs back. He wished me good night. I gave him another hug and he laughed softly.

Back in my room, I cried. The evening was very emotionally fulfilling for many reasons, and I was overwhelmed.

This is exactly how 50th birthdays should be.